TRAIL JOURNAL
/ September 2, 2022
In the evening of 9/2, the PCT in the Pasayten Wilderness was officially ordered closed. We were turned back at Holman Pass, 13.5 miles from the northern terminus. To be stopped when we were so close was pretty disappointing. We saw some hikers crying and others looked shocked. Most people were busy on their satellite devices trying to figure out what to do next, just like us. Although we were disappointed, it was hardly surprising the trail had closed. Throughout the afternoon it had become increasingly obvious that conditions were getting dangerous. Huge plumes of smoke were visible within a few miles either side of the PCT. A change of wind could have fanned either fire over the trail. And we could see more fires further north.
It had been a strange afternoon. Smoke had been clearly visible from Harts Pass but the trail was open. We were hopeful we could get in and tag the border that night before the fires got too close to the trail. We hot-footed it and I felt terrific. But the closer we got to the border, the closer we got to the biggest smoke tower of all. We seemed to be headed directly toward it. The trail veered to the west of the fire according to the map, but from the trail it seemed closer. Our hopeful plan started to seem impossible.
Hikers coming toward us on the trail were urging us to turn back, like them. They warned us of really bad smoke in the valley ahead, and one showed us some photos of uncomfortably close flames. By 8pm we ended our quest for Canada.
I wasn’t sure how to feel. Dad sent a message to Support Team A. Some hikers were sitting down on the trail commiserating one another over drinks intended to be celebratory. For me and Dad, there was not much more to do other than turn around. We hiked back a little ways before Dad suggested we slow down and just relax. He was right. We weren’t charging for the border anymore. We could just relax. So we set up camp in an awesome spot, ate a ton, and in darkness watched the fire’s glow along a distant ridge.
The next morning I felt much better. Dad and I had talked about how we might still be able to finish the PCT, or that this might be it. In the Pasayten, the weather turns in September. Rain and even snow could quickly put out the fires and make it possible for us to tag the border before it got ridiculously cold. Even if we could go no further, Dad and I agreed that our PCT hike had been truly awesome. We decided to enjoy this last day on the trail. We again ate like kings, packed up our gear, and walked leisurely back to Harts Pass.
Harts Pass was somber and a completely different place compared to just the day before. We kept our positive outlook, and took some photos with the closed signs while we waited for a ride to Mazama.
- Magnus!